Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Looking for a face

When you begin to look for a face, you can't stop staring.

The Picadilly line is London's little moving beehive. At 8 a.m, its the hardest thing to find space on.

I could say he was Italian. He had to be. His hair was black. Long nose, broad shoulders, a casual kind of stance, holding onto to the pillar. He was immaculately dressed, like everyone else – tie and suit. But the first button undone is a dead give away you know, its “casual”. I would imagine he could say “Buon giorno, Principessa!” just like the lead in 'Life is Beautiful' and be very savvy about wine. There was no sign of the western placidity on his face. But wait, he could be Greek too I suppose. I can't say, not yet.

She was sitting. Legs crossed. The cream sweater, gray skirt, black shoes, brunette. She had very flushed cheeks. French manicured hands, holding on to an ipad. Eyes were blue, tending towards gentle gray. Kind of reminds you of a gentle aquatic bird, who would peacefully fly short stretches, but then would stop for tea. When I looked up to meet her eyes, she smiled. A kind of wordless “hello there!” But it was a very formal smile, like someone just shook your hand. She wore tiny ear drops. A kind of simplicity and elegance, that made sure no one would be offended. She had to be English, if I had to make a guess.

Somebody had to read the “Daily Mail”. He had a copy. Well, in his defence, its something to do on the silent, packed tube. He was middle aged, I could say. Black, very little hair, curly though. Thick lower lip. Atheletic. Very wise looking eyes, like a pool almost. I'm fascinated by how people's hands look, actually. His were those “no nonsense” types – very short nails, well cut. There was a kind of warmth around him. I guess I thought so cause I always imagined Mr.Braithwaite to look that way.

Stylish. Fashionable. Fur coated. Pink nail polish-ed. Young. Small eyes. Dainty. Talking to another girl in hushed, excited tones. “Sheng ma” One picks up Mandarin in London. She had a very determined look in her eyes. Something that would tell you, here isn't someone who shies away from turbulence. Now, if I hadn't heard “Sheng ma”, I would take my time to surmise a guess. It's not very easy for me to tell a Thai from Chinese. Heck, she could well be from Hong kong, she was very stylish. But its rare for someone in Hong kong to speak Mandarin, I suppose. They'd speak Cantonese. Something I wouldnt know anything about.

Ah, the heavy bags meant he was coming in from the airport. The Picadilly meant Heathrow. Casual tees, a tired, exhausted look, sneakers. Heck, where was his coat? Was “london” too warm for him? He was white, with brownish hair. Tall. Lanky. I tried hard to be able to say – but really, he could ideally be from anywhere. I wouldn't know unless he spoke. But speaking is a virtual no-no on tubes. Yes, cause talking is intrusive.

I know – she had to be Indian. The ring, the “mangal sutra”, medium height, brown,wearing formal pants instead of leggings. Confident. Beautiful eyes, almost fish like – she could very well be from Bengal. She wore earrings. Its probably cause I'm Indian, that I attribute a lot of patience and tolerance to all of us. I sort of can't really put into words the amount of things I could sense about her. Its too much information to put on paper. For starters, she'll know Sachin Tendulkar and Paani Puris.

When I had to make my way out, it was hard to move. Partly because there wasn't too much space and partly because it was hard to tear my gaze away. Cause when you look and you sense, you feel awe. Awe at finding the whole world, in the picadilly. It reeks beauty, you know. London is truly a work of art. And I just cannot stop staring.

Friday, January 27, 2012

Enchanting Edinburgh (Edin-bur-raw)

It's where art, beauty and a funny way of speaking live in a menage-a-trois. Its where many a writers, many a famous goons, many happy drinkers and many magical creatures walk merrily. Its a land of beauty, history, castles and whisky. Kilts, bagpipes, ghosts, ghouls, dungeons, poetry, sea, kings, you and me.

When I first saw Edinburgh, I thought it was like chocolate wafer. Light brown stone buildings (unlike dark red or white london) and towers and castles everywhere! The city is one of the most beautiful in the world and rightly so. Its a visual treat, literally. If I could have eaten Edinburgh, I would have!It is very traveller friendly (I personally dislike being called a 'tourist'). Budget stays, maps, guides, directions and whisky – this city is the traveller's favorite.

The edinburgh castle rests elegantly atop a beautiful mountain. The mountain is so picturesque – it tugs at your arteries and veins. The once-upon-a-time volcanic mountain, now gorgeously brown, golden, yellow, green – with blue skies and a magnificent castle, feels like a little monster jumping over your superior and inferior venacava. In short, its poetic. The castle's history spans the Iron age, middle ages, new ages – so there has been plenty of action. Saint Margaret, popular for her deeds of charity, lived here. There were many historically important events that took place here – including the Scottish wars for independence. A chunk of the castle is a tribute to the Scottish soldier. The ornate, immaculately dressed, brave and courageous – almost “mills and boon”ish image, in the backdrop of a historic castle, is sure to get any lady swooning. What struck me most remarkable, was the idea of the “huge naval fleet”. For being a tiny island, in comparision to the land masses elsewhere, the UK sure conquered more than half the world! Its hard not to admire the efficiency. And equally hard to not admire the spirit of the average Brit who voted against imperialism and was for relinquishing its colonies (I know Im digressing to talk about UK instead of scotland now, but the thoughts came rushing in at the castle and I couldnt really be bothered to classify them). The war memorial in the castle has weapons, details of war, but ends with a section on “red cross” and the destructions war can bring. Its true, United Kingdom has had its share of youthful young blood and conquests, but its also true that she is a wiser, much more charming lady now. The view of Edinburgh from the castle is again, picture perfect. One sees much of the chocolate brown, hogwarts kind of city, with the sea at the far end in its horizon. Its hard not to swoon.


Calton Hill – is one of the most beautiful sights that I've ever seen. Terribly windy in january, this place literally blows you away. No wonder so many poets and painters refused to leave this place – its hard to part with, I'd imagine. Robert Burns (and the city of edinburgh celebrates the Burns' night in January in his honour), Robert louis stevenson, Sir Walter scott, Sir Arthur conan doyle, JM Barrie, Ian Ranking, JK Rowling and many other celebrated authors and poets attribute much of their inspiration to this place. Calton hill has the parthenon-styled National Monument, built to commemorate the Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic wars. Lots of festivals take place in calton hill – like the Beltane fire festival (april) and wait for it – the dushera (in october).

Let's talk watering holes. Burns said, “Whisky and freedom gang thegither” and you sure will be raising a toast to that. Scotland has a lot of bars and pubs. Let me emphasize the word, “lots”. I tried my first Glen Kinchie here (though its universally available). There are some really popular bars – like Deacon Brodie tavern (Deacon brodie, popular for being notorious!) You can do a literary pub crawl here, no kidding. Get high on it! By the way, I found vegetarian food more easily available in Edinburgh. Almost every food-jaunt has a “vegetarian” option. Do not forget to try “haggis” and well, chips with curry. Authenticity guaranteed.
Walk down the Royal Mile. This street has pubs, “dungeons” (if you're into spook, then you can get a chill or two at the Dungeons. Go hang out with the ne'er do good-ers), random bagpipe players, lots of curious stores, lots of headless men reading the newpapers (I am not kidding!). Its a must-do, for a completely new experience of experiencing something new.

There is a high-street, with the regular stores. But that can wait till you wander around all the different “markets”. The streets of Edinburgh have this really magical feel to it – like I was sure I'm going to see Harry Potter playing quidditch at some point in time, here. Beautiful cathedrals, more castles, more big brown chocolate, beautiful skies – take a good supply of adjectives with you to be able to describe them.

I am completely bewitched by Edinburgh. You?

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Richmond - very enRiching

I had, on numerous occasions, taken the '65 to Kingston'. Richmond seemed fascinating from the window of the lil red bus. The sudden flurry of Top Shop, Zara and the kind, made me take note. But of course, on a sunday, when I had less to do than usual – after a suitable amount of wiki-ing, I decided to take the 65 to Kingston and then get down (some would say, “alight”) at Richmond. You'll see, that it's a rather nice thing to do, pinky-promise.



Now, if you've been to our Bangalore – you'd have noticed the Richmond road, the Richmond Hotel, the Richmond-this-and-that (I think I also saw a “Richmond Ice cream parlour” once). So hold your bursting curiousity to see what other things are associated with the namesake.

Richmond, might look deceptively, like the rest of london. Brownish red brick lanes, with the Top Shops and “English Breakfast here” signs. One would need “insight” or an “insider” to find the “Maid of Honours” - a six row house, built for the maids of honours of the Princess of Wales.


The area around Richmond green, reminds me of the Elvis Presley song (though, I should be singing Rolling Stones around this place, really) - “a lil less conversation, a lil more action please”. There's a lot of action packed around this area, with very less talk. If you don't have the Watson eye (Sherlock eyes would be a bit too detailed and tedious. Watsons' should do nicely), you'll be missing out on tales of ups-and-downs, grandeur, deceit, revelry and of chronicled history.

Starting from the Shene-times (when Richmond was known to be a part of the Sheen-province) five centuries ago, this green has stood witness to many important things, events and people in English history. King Henry I, King Henry VII, William shakespeare, Elizabeth I were some notable inhabitants of the area around the green. If you're into history, like I am, you'll lap up the stories of Old Palace like a persian cat would lap up warm milk.

Notable buildings around this area – and by that, I mean, historical ones – are the Wardrobe (where soft furnishings of the rich palace were kept. Also where Elizabeth I kept her clothes.), the bits of the old palace (burnt down during the civil disobedience), the trumpeteer. They all lace the Richmond Green. Definitely go by the Cricket club that borders the green. Just cause the name says Cricket and just cause I say so.

But of course, its true that Cricket is and was played on the greens
here.I was told by a proud Richmond-er, “here lived shakespeare” and “here lived attenborough” while we strolled around the Richmond green. Oh wait, in case you're still unimpressed, so did the Rolling Stones.



Walking by the bridge, was, I thought- beautiful. Thames seems like a lovely little canal at places, flowing obediently into the heavily engineered paths – none visible. While I sipped on some wine, in the pub, I was proudly told, by a Richmond-er, “Richmond does not flood – Queen Victoria says so”. There are canals and channels, big tubes, I hear, that run underneath the ground, just by the
banks that flood-proof this area. The bridge walk path leads straight to the Hampstead palace, of which I've nothing but nice-things. The bridge itself, I am told, was a means to carry wealthy british aristocracy across to the other end.


Properties of the rich and famous line the river. I made a mental note to myself, which went, “Nithya, be rich soon”, when I strolled past them. I hear there are millionaires from Russia, billionaires from Malaysia and globe-over living here, so on so forth. I know – yes, make that mental note. I'll give you a minute to do that.


My description of a Richmond trip would be geographically speaking, 60% incomplete – if we left Richmond Old Deer Park. Ofcourse, it was used for hunting deer, in the yesteryears. Queen Elizabeth I, is known to have spent a considerable amount of time here. Now, its a dear-Old-park, with sprawling acres of land, all green. Give your lungs and feet some exercise and air out here. Richmond Hill has the Petersham hotel (Ofcourse you're going “savvy!” in your head). Notable houses that line the hill, are the Wick. The Downe house. But these look like a dark red button embroidered in a dark red cloth – so wear your glasses when you go looking. “Seek and you shalt
find”. Somewhere in this dark cloth is the poppies factory, those that make Remembrance Day poppies. The proceeds of the same goes into maintaining the Royal Star and Garter Home, a military hospital (once hotel) for the war-wounded, atop the hill.

These are just minor reasons for you to make that climb to the hill top. The biggest reason is view of the thames-bend from atop the hill. This has been painted and painted and painted by so many artists. It has been the subject of much poetry. I think this is where I get another glimpse of the British sense of simplicity in beauty. The view, is “simply” beautiful. I've always thought that– if something is simple, it must be beautiful and vice versa. There's no too much ado about it, but its captivating in that very aspect. You'll see.



There's a lot of up-town shops again on richmond hill. Fancier eateries and pubs. But you and I have seen that already. The part that pulls me towards Richmond, blame it on my hey-look-there's- water-attitude, is the Thames walk – where we can walk by the river. There's no hullabaloo around this part of the city – no big touristy posters saying “awesome history found here”. I could have walked by Richmond and all of it, being completely blind to its many assets. But that would have been a shame – I'd have missed out on one of the most affluent, beautiful, “rich” parts of the city, with a rich history, rich present and seemingly rich future.

What is this?

Continental Drift – very “moving”, indeed
-an Urban Bangalorean's guide to the UK and then some more!

Who am I?
A curious rookie in london, hailing from the city of Bangalore, India. I regularly masala-chai. Nowadays, I also jacket-potato, more than often. I'm learning to say 'paypah' and to wear a hat. Here, I write about how I find london, as london finds me.

What this blog will do?
It will have posts about me going to these places, doing these things-to-do, taking pictures, writing about them. You'd be tempted to think it would mirror my facebook profile, with the afore mentioned activities. Well, curb that thought. This blog will have posts of what I think of the UK, through my genetically-oh-so-Bangalorean eyes. I'll take you on a trip, really – whilst telling you what I find exciting and new, what I find familiar about the Queen's country, what I find wonderful and what I dont. Growing up in a common wealth country like India, the British-ness rubs off on us a little – amidst and despite our strong masala flavours. This blog will be a reflection of all that too!

What will YOU do?
Tell me what you liked, what you didn't. Tell me if I spell things wrong. Tell me if I've got funny typos. Tell me what YOU think, about something I wrote. Tell me if you agree, if you disagree with something. Tell me something new about these ideas I present. Tell me something I don't know.

I can also lampoon you know. Just saying.